Skin type guide

Dehydrated is not the same as dry

These two words get used interchangeably, and the mix-up wastes money: the fix for one does very little for the other.

The difference is simple. Dry skin lacks oil, and it is a skin type you are mostly born with. Dehydrated skin lacks water, and it is a temporary condition anyone can have. Oily skin can be dehydrated too, which is where most of the confusion lives.

How to tell which you have

Dry skin feels rough and flaky, looks matte, and feels tight most of the time. It has always been that way, in most weathers.

Dehydrated skin feels tight but often looks shiny by midday. It shows fine crinkly lines when you gently pinch your cheek, drinks in products, and tends to appear after flights, air conditioning, harsh cleansers or over-exfoliating.

The tell in one line: dry is a texture you can see, dehydration is a tightness you can feel under oil that should not be there.

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The fix for dehydration

Dehydrated skin wants humectants, the ingredients that pull water in: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, panthenol. Apply them to damp skin, then seal with a moisturiser within a minute, otherwise the humectant can pull water out of your skin into dry air instead.

Also fix the cause: swap harsh foaming cleansers for gentle ones, cut back exfoliating acids, and be kind to your skin after flights and heavy air conditioning.

The fix for dryness

Dry skin wants oils and barrier lipids: ceramides, squalane, fatty-acid-rich creams. Humectants still help, but without richer occlusive layers on top the tightness comes straight back.

Think of it as: dehydration needs water plus a lid, dryness needs the lid itself upgraded.

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